Pete Dooley Design Manifesto

  • History of board design & development
    • Surfing is adjusting the levels of resistance to the force of the wave
    • Float
      • Eternal question Sacrifice waves for performance or performance for waves
      • Old boards were huge and heavy
      • High performance boards supply minimal float
    • Outline (width and overall curve of the board)
      • Curve of outline (Template of board)
        • to little curve unturnable
        • to much curve to loose ( no direction)
        • wide point to far forward catchy and to tight
        • wide point to far back to turney ( directionless)
      • The more curve the looser ( more turney) the board is
      • pulled tails ( narrower) hold in waves better less turnable
      • wide tails more maneuverable less hold in larger waves ( spin out)
    • Fins for hold and direction
      • Base for hold on bottom turns
        • to much fin area creates drag and slows board
      • Tips
        • narrow: for release at top of wave
        • wider: for hold at top of waves
      • Rake: The curve ( swept) back look of the fin
        • none for pivot turns
        • deep (swept back) for projection out of turns
      • Single Fins
        • placed far back in tail makes the board less turny holds down tail
        • placed to far forward of tail makes board more turny, potential for spin outs
        • wide (long base) and deep (tall) for nose riding
        • medium base and rake for use with side bites (7 1/2")
        • narrow base more rake for eggs
      • Single Fins with side bites
        • smaller single fin can be used with side bites (side bites add additional hold)
        • more balanced turning: single fins "hold in center" use rails for turn
        • side bites add bite to turns, intitialized from rail
          • side bites placed at pivot point of outline and bottom (turning area)
      • Twin Fins
        • very loose
        • less fin drag (sensation of speed increased)
        • pivoty turns
        • often lack drive
      • Four Fins
        • More drive and hold than twins
        • turns more toward rails
      • Three Fins
        • Most universal fin combination
          • combines hold drive and projection
    • Wings and Hips: break point in tail portion of outline (turning Point)
      • Hips
        • Where the template breaks ( curves ) in towards the tail
          • increased curve here makes for more pivot in turns
          • lack of curve here draws turns out ( longer radius) ie larger waves
      • Wings: pivot point (break ) in outline
        • Square Wings
          • add bite to turn pivot
        • Soft Wings
          • smooth turn transition
        • Bump Wings
          • barely noticable hip-like
        • Up Wings
          • for surfers with forward stances ( standing Place on board)
          • shorten rail (outline) in water increase (tighten) radius of turn
          • could make for smaller tail (better hold)
        • Double wings
          • can be used to make an up wing removing straight behind upwing
          • can make a wide tail (planing) have a tight tail (more hold)
    • Tails
      • Round pin
        • tightest holding tail
        • popular in single fin days for hold in big waves
        • transfer from rail to rail is toe to heal no real transition or planing
        • sensation of hold supplanted by advent of tri fins
      • Round tail
        • looser version of the round pin (popular with tri fin)
        • very turney
      • Roundie
        • extreme version of the round tail, for small wave fun
      • Diamond
        • popular in the single fin day
          • provides tail area (corners) and point for direction
      • Squash
        • soft round wide tail made popular and functional by tri fin set up
        • most forgiving planing area in tail relies on tri fin for hold and direction
      • Baby Squash
        • smaller version of squash adds curve in back and tightens tail
      • Square
        • tail planing area with corners to project turns from
      • Swallow
        • split tail allows for more width while providing direction and hold from points
      • Felix
        • swallow tail mutant with diamond dropped in center for hold and planing
    • Rocker: the curve nose to tail that fits you into the wave
      • old boards had minimal rocker
    • Entry
      • where the water makes initial contact with the board
        • to much and you "push water"
        • to little and you " pearl
    • Release "tail rocker"
      • the curve in the rear bottom that allows you to fit in the wave
        • to much and you have no drive (resistance to wave)
        • to little and board works as lever forcing the nose down (pearl)
    • Rails: outside of board
      • Full rails
        • boxey (more resistance to wave)
          • less water on deck
          • more resistant to sinking for turn
      • Low rails
        • ease of depression (sinking to turn)
        • water over deck (less resistance when going slow)
    • Edge: sharpness of outer bottom edge
      • to much and board catches on turns
      • to little and board has no drive out of turns
    • Rolled edge, edge is tucked under rail
      • sensation of lift and bite yet more forgiving
    • Bottoms
      • Flat: resistance to wave ( lift and speed)
        • to much and board planes to much ( uncontrolable speed)
        • to little and board wants to sink (no resistance)
      • Foil Bottoms: Belly in bottom soft tippy and easy
        • slower less reaction time
        • solid "in the water" feel
      • V bottoms
        • tipping point for direction change
          • to much and board wants to sink ( no resistance)
      • Forward V: Essentially flatttening rocker out on rail
        • best in more powerful surf
      • Concave V: placing a V in a concave breaking it up
        • creates drive and control along with lift
      • Concaves: inverted curves or tunnels
        • for creating lift more wetted area
          • downward deflection of water creates lift
          • concave creates focused flat ( area flat in rocker ) for more lift
      • Nose concaves
        • Lift in nose for noseriding
          • full nose concaves
          • tear drop: smaller centered concaves (not out to rails)
      • Planing concaves
        • single concave: flattens rocker down center of bottom
          • fast bottom lft and tunnel of speed
        • Double concaves: creates a V for turning separating concave into two
          • creates drive and control along with lift
        • Triple concave: front foot driving concave leading into double concave
          • evolved into a single with a double inside
            • Very fast bottom with added drive through turns
      • Channels: lift and directional drive bite and hold. (4) or (6)
        • Tail channels: directional bite off tail in turns
          • control and speed in bigger waves
        • Mid channels: directional lift and bite under surfers turning area
          • At times skip out of water in chop and grab at inoportune times
          • release to a flat in tail
  • Board designs ( shapes)
    • The reason for "Models"
      • to keep conflicting design concepts from working against each other
      • a well schooled designer with proper feedback combines concepts
    • Longboards
      • Positives
        • plenty of float
        • stability
      • Negatives
        • skills needed to maneuver
      • Old school
        • 60 40 rails wider low rocker
      • Nose riders
        • narrower tail wider nose for planing while perching
      • Performance Longboards
        • edgier lower rails performance (more) rocker
        • wider tails
    • Mini Longboards (Original Shortboards)
      • Maneuverability (smaller than traditional longboards)
      • Single fin Or with side bites
      • Tri fins
    • Funboards (missing Links)
      • Wide outline in nose
        • helps paddling into small waves
        • stabiltiy for learning (ease of standing)
      • Close to performance tail ( for modern turning)
      • Close to longboard nose ( for initial standing and stability)
      • Deep entry rocker
        • when standing, wide nose is lifted from wave contact
        • tail (slightly wider) same as performance boards
    • Eggs: forward template (outline) soft round bottom and rails
      • forgiving rails and bottom
      • slightly slower (less resistance) rounded bottom
    • Big Guy
      • float of fun board, outline of performance board
      • more foam under chest
    • Single fins
      • Old school forward template
      • New school (modern tail bottom outline and rocker)
    • Fish "Old school" ( round nose) thick flat wide and fast
      • Made to be ridden shorter than performance boards
        • width traded for length in planing
          • originally the same planing area of a longboard
      • Outline wide and "parallel"
        • straighter outline makes for speed ( resistance)
        • made to be ridden centered
      • Deep swallow to hold in wide tail
    • Rocket fish
      • More performance nose (narrower) often with wing swallow configuration
    • Wide rocket
      • Full nose rocket fish, often with no wing
    • Rice burner
      • Performance nose and width with wide no wing swallow
      • "Front end performance, back end fish"
    • Beachbreak
      • Rocket fish template with squash tail
    • Roundie
      • Beachbreak template with a very wide round tail
    • Performance (says it all)
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