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Pete Dooley Design Manifesto
- History of board design & development
- Surfing is adjusting the levels of resistance to the force of the wave
- Float
- Eternal question Sacrifice waves for performance or performance for waves
- Old boards were huge and heavy
- High performance boards supply minimal float
- Outline (width and overall curve of the board)
- Curve of outline (Template of board)
- to little curve unturnable
- to much curve to loose ( no direction)
- wide point to far forward catchy and to tight
- wide point to far back to turney ( directionless)
- The more curve the looser ( more turney) the board is
- pulled tails ( narrower) hold in waves better less turnable
- wide tails more maneuverable less hold in larger waves ( spin out)
- Fins for hold and direction
- Base for hold on bottom turns
- to much fin area creates drag and slows board
- Tips
- narrow: for release at top of wave
- wider: for hold at top of waves
- Rake: The curve ( swept) back look of the fin
- none for pivot turns
- deep (swept back) for projection out of turns
- Single Fins
- placed far back in tail makes the board less turny holds down tail
- placed to far forward of tail makes board more turny, potential for spin outs
- wide (long base) and deep (tall) for nose riding
- medium base and rake for use with side bites (7 1/2")
- narrow base more rake for eggs
- Single Fins with side bites
- smaller single fin can be used with side bites (side bites add additional hold)
- more balanced turning: single fins "hold in center" use rails for turn
- side bites add bite to turns, intitialized from rail
- side bites placed at pivot point of outline and bottom (turning area)
- Twin Fins
- very loose
- less fin drag (sensation of speed increased)
- pivoty turns
- often lack drive
- Four Fins
- More drive and hold than twins
- turns more toward rails
- Three Fins
- Most universal fin combination
- combines hold drive and projection
- Wings and Hips: break point in tail portion of outline (turning Point)
- Hips
- Where the template breaks ( curves ) in towards the tail
- increased curve here makes for more pivot in turns
- lack of curve here draws turns out ( longer radius) ie larger waves
- Wings: pivot point (break ) in outline
- Square Wings
- Soft Wings
- Bump Wings
- barely noticable hip-like
- Up Wings
- for surfers with forward stances ( standing Place on board)
- shorten rail (outline) in water increase (tighten) radius of turn
- could make for smaller tail (better hold)
- Double wings
- can be used to make an up wing removing straight behind upwing
- can make a wide tail (planing) have a tight tail (more hold)
- Tails
- Round pin
- tightest holding tail
- popular in single fin days for hold in big waves
- transfer from rail to rail is toe to heal no real transition or planing
- sensation of hold supplanted by advent of tri fins
- Round tail
- looser version of the round pin (popular with tri fin)
- very turney
- Roundie
- extreme version of the round tail, for small wave fun
- Diamond
- popular in the single fin day
- provides tail area (corners) and point for direction
- Squash
- soft round wide tail made popular and functional by tri fin set up
- most forgiving planing area in tail relies on tri fin for hold and direction
- Baby Squash
- smaller version of squash adds curve in back and tightens tail
- Square
- tail planing area with corners to project turns from
- Swallow
- split tail allows for more width while providing direction and hold from points
- Felix
- swallow tail mutant with diamond dropped in center for hold and planing
- Rocker: the curve nose to tail that fits you into the wave
- old boards had minimal rocker
- Entry
- where the water makes initial contact with the board
- to much and you "push water"
- to little and you " pearl
- Release "tail rocker"
- the curve in the rear bottom that allows you to fit in the wave
- to much and you have no drive (resistance to wave)
- to little and board works as lever forcing the nose down (pearl)
- Rails: outside of board
- Full rails
- boxey (more resistance to wave)
- less water on deck
- more resistant to sinking for turn
- Low rails
- ease of depression (sinking to turn)
- water over deck (less resistance when going slow)
- Edge: sharpness of outer bottom edge
- to much and board catches on turns
- to little and board has no drive out of turns
- Rolled edge, edge is tucked under rail
- sensation of lift and bite yet more forgiving
- Bottoms
- Flat: resistance to wave ( lift and speed)
- to much and board planes to much ( uncontrolable speed)
- to little and board wants to sink (no resistance)
- Foil Bottoms: Belly in bottom soft tippy and easy
- slower less reaction time
- solid "in the water" feel
- V bottoms
- tipping point for direction change
- to much and board wants to sink ( no resistance)
- Forward V: Essentially flatttening rocker out on rail
- best in more powerful surf
- Concave V: placing a V in a concave breaking it up
- creates drive and control along with lift
- Concaves: inverted curves or tunnels
- for creating lift more wetted area
- downward deflection of water creates lift
- concave creates focused flat ( area flat in rocker ) for more lift
- Nose concaves
- Lift in nose for noseriding
- full nose concaves
- tear drop: smaller centered concaves (not out to rails)
- Planing concaves
- single concave: flattens rocker down center of bottom
- fast bottom lft and tunnel of speed
- Double concaves: creates a V for turning separating concave into two
- creates drive and control along with lift
- Triple concave: front foot driving concave leading into double concave
- evolved into a single with a double inside
- Very fast bottom with added drive through turns
- Channels: lift and directional drive bite and hold. (4) or (6)
- Tail channels: directional bite off tail in turns
- control and speed in bigger waves
- Mid channels: directional lift and bite under surfers turning area
- At times skip out of water in chop and grab at inoportune times
- release to a flat in tail
- Board designs ( shapes)
- The reason for "Models"
- to keep conflicting design concepts from working against each other
- a well schooled designer with proper feedback combines concepts
- Longboards
- Positives
- plenty of float
- stability
- Negatives
- skills needed to maneuver
- Old school
- 60 40 rails wider low rocker
- Nose riders
- narrower tail wider nose for planing while perching
- Performance Longboards
- edgier lower rails performance (more) rocker
- wider tails
- Mini Longboards (Original Shortboards)
- Maneuverability (smaller than traditional longboards)
- Single fin Or with side bites
- Tri fins
- Funboards (missing Links)
- Wide outline in nose
- helps paddling into small waves
- stabiltiy for learning (ease of standing)
- Close to performance tail ( for modern turning)
- Close to longboard nose ( for initial standing and stability)
- Deep entry rocker
- when standing, wide nose is lifted from wave contact
- tail (slightly wider) same as performance boards
- Eggs: forward template (outline) soft round bottom and rails
- forgiving rails and bottom
- slightly slower (less resistance) rounded bottom
- Big Guy
- float of fun board, outline of performance board
- more foam under chest
- Single fins
- Old school forward template
- New school (modern tail bottom outline and rocker)
- Fish "Old school" ( round nose) thick flat wide and fast
- Made to be ridden shorter than performance boards
- width traded for length in planing
- originally the same planing area of a longboard
- Outline wide and "parallel"
- straighter outline makes for speed ( resistance)
- made to be ridden centered
- Deep swallow to hold in wide tail
- Rocket fish
- More performance nose (narrower) often with wing swallow configuration
- Wide rocket
- Full nose rocket fish, often with no wing
- Rice burner
- Performance nose and width with wide no wing swallow
- "Front end performance, back end fish"
- Beachbreak
- Rocket fish template with squash tail
- Roundie
- Beachbreak template with a very wide round tail
- Performance (says it all)
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